Showing posts with label MonS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label MonS. Show all posts

01 February 2011

In conclusion...

Last Friday was my last day at MonS and to conclude my time at the company, barring an interpretive dance, the best way to summarize my experience would be a few of my favorite quotes.  In no particular order:

Moi, j'envoie toujours des bébés par la poste.
I always send babies by mail.

On ne perd jamais son temps lorsqu'on travail - on est toujours en train d'apprendre quelque chose.
One never wastes time when working - we're always learning something.

C'est presque logique...
 It's almost logical...

Il se peut que la semaine prochaine le même fromage soit immangeable.  C'est pour ça que [l'affinage] c'est compliqué.  C'est pour ça que c'est amusant.
It's possible that next week the same cheese is disgusting.  This is how it [affinage] is complicated.  This is why it's fun.

La facilité est accessible à tous.  C'est dans la difficulté que les meilleurs s'expriment.
Anyone can do what's easy.  It's in difficulty that the best express themselves.

Si tu te souviens que d'une chose, c'est la température!
If you only remember one thing, it's temperature!

Thank you, Hervé Mons and the crew, for this education and challenge: I feel more driven than ever.

Sunset over Massif du Central volcanoes, Auvergne

01 November 2010

Behold the Power of Cheese Affinage

Article for The Farmer General published 28th February 2011

Sarah Kanabay, The Farmer General Co-Founder and Editor in Chief, contacted me several months ago about contributing to the online food literary magazine.  Evidently, I enthusiastically agreed and began brainstorming my first theme: Tradition.  What to write about...?  Ah, of course: Behold the Power of Cheese Affinage.  What else?

14 July 2010

Photo shoot in the caves

Scrubbing Raclette, a semihard cheese

Painting Langres, a washed rind

Tête de Moines, semihard from Switzerland

The very tasty Ossau Iraty, semihard
(For you, Dad!)

Cave 1 is filled with hard and semihard cheeses

Tada!

27 June 2010

The challenge

Feeling a little homesick for Mexican food, I made burritos the other night.  I delightedly wrapped my fingers around those corn tortillas and chuckled as Andy dropped half of his filling onto the plate.  To accompany my delicious, nostalgic meal, I made myself a Monaco.  I've discovered that grenadine, added to une bière blonde, is ambrosia.

Domaine des Palais, Ambierle, France

While I remain content, life at MonS is challenging.  My flatmate gave me an article to read about the Michelin-starred restaurant at which he worked prior to coming to France.  The author describes the environment at Number One in Edinburgh's Balmoral Hotel as fast-paced, grueling and potentially hazardous.  Though hazardous comes only in heavy lifting, MonS demands a similarly fast pace that I have not encountered before.  Deadlines, I know.  Lines of customers, yes.  But the former means a healthy build-up to a finished product, provided effective work-load management.  And the latter, in my experience, means grueling within a short time frame (lunch rush, for instance).  My day at MonS is all fast-paced, all the time, and while I assume I'll become accustomed, this work environment differs drastically from my philosophy that 'it's better to do something well and slow to begin, than to do something fast and half-assed.'

I'm trying my best to learn, work fast and work well, and having completed these first three weeks, I'm not sure where I stand.  I am very happy and proud to say that I painted all of the Langres, Epoisses, and Maroilles in the celicaves (wine cases) and finished ahead of schedule last Thursday.  But on Friday, I wasted 45 minutes flipping new goat cheeses in the haloir (drying room) because I thought they were not ready to go into their aging cave, when in fact, they were ready. 

I hope that next time I write I will be able to tell you that I am totally one with affinage at MonS.  For now, I'll tell you that I'm working hard everyday to be a good affineur and I'll leave you with this passage by Paulo Coelho from The Alchemist:

"My heart is afraid that it will have to suffer," the boy told the alchemist one night as they looked up at the moonless sky.

"Tell your heart that the fear of suffering is worse than the suffering itself.  And that no heart has ever suffered when it goes in search of its dreams, because every second of the search is a second's encounter with God and with eternity."

"Every second of the search is an encounter with God," the boy told his heart.  "When I have been truly searching for my treasure, every day has been luminous, because I've known that every hour was a part of the dream that I would find it.  When I have been truly searching for my treasure, I've discovered things along the way that I never would have seen had I not had the courage to try things that seemed impossible for a shepherd to achieve."

So his heart was quiet for an entire afternoon.  That night, the boy slept deeply, and, when he awoke, his heart began to tell him things that came from the Soul of the World.  It said that all people who are happy have God within them.  And that happiness could be found in a grain of sand from the desert, as the alchemist had said.  Because a grain of sand is a moment of creation, and the universe has taken millions of years to create it.  "Everyone on earth has a treasure that awaits him," his heart said.  "We, people's hearts, seldom say much about those treasures, because people no longer want to go in search of them.  We speak of them only to children.  Later, we simply let life proceed, in its own direction, toward its own fate.  But, unfortunately, very few follow the path laid out for them - the path to their Personal Legends, and to happiness.  Most people see the world as a threatening place, and, because they do, the world turns out, indeed, to be a threatening place.

"So, we, their hearts, speak more and more softly.  We never stop speaking out, but we begin to hope that our words won't be heard: we don't want people to suffer because they don't follow their hearts."

Saint-Haon-le-Châtel, France

09 June 2010

First days at MonS

Being an affineur at MonS is demanding.  Much to do and more to know, the pace is consistently brisk.  Even the classic pause café is brief, as cheeses keep coming in, waiting for us to unwrap them, count them, taste the new ones, assess, and put them away in their respective caves.  When not receiving pallets of cheeses from artisan and industrial cheesemakers, we are caring for the cheeses already sleeping and aging in their assorted caves and drying rooms.  Whether rubbing them down with dry brushes, wet brushes or simply with our fingers, all these cheeses must be handled and flipped at least once a week to prevent an uneven outburst of mold on this one, a cracked rind on that one, or any number of unfortunate effects of being alive.  Cheese is wondrous!  Milk solid teeming with bacterial life, preserving milk indefinitely and, if created and refined properly, divine.

While this is only my first week, life at MonS is good.  Working with individuals from around the world that are truly passionate about cheese is rewarding in its own right.  Everyone works hard and seems to sincerely appreciate each other and I sense a high rate of job satisfaction.  My own satisfaction comes from knowing I will learn a lot from one of the most renowned affineurs in the world.  And as an added bonus, I am living in a beautiful, spacious house with a beautiful, spacious yard and vegetable garden (which needs some serious attention), with a British flatmate that cooks and cleans and has interesting conversation, so really I can't ask for a better lot in life.  Oh, and I live in the French countryside where the holy trinity is baguette, cheese and wine.  What!?